Back from Vegas and ready to rock!

I am excited to be back home and share with you my experience at the IBS/ KBIS show held in Las Vegas this year.  For those of you who are not familiar with the show here is a little info.  IBS or the International Builders Show is put on by the National Home Builders Association.  This year they combined shows with the Kitchen and Bath Industry Show to put on "Design and Construction Week".  The shows offered over 1,100 vendors featuring a multitude of products, training and informational classes, and the chance to network with leaders in many different areas of the industry.  While not everything at the show was applicable to multi-family housing there were thousands of products, many training sessions, and hundreds of networking opportunities for me.  In short, the knowledge I gained in three days was worth the time and money it cost to attend the show.

The show started off with a great speech by General Stan McChrystal highlighting the importance of communication within any field.  If you have never heard of General McChrystal a quick trip over to his bio is well worth your time.  He stressed the importance of leadership, teamwork, and how to make the most of your team.  The speech was informative, entertaining, and even funny at times.

Next came an initial walk through of the massive showroom floor.  I spent more than an entire day walking the rows and rows of booths and displays the vendors had set up.  I was able to learn about new and exciting products that can be directly translated into the properties in which I work.  I will be detailing these products in future posts.

I also attended a few classes which were very informational.  These included classes on how to avoid OSHA fines, mistakes to avoid when building, multi-family expectations, and 50+ community trends to watch out for.  These classes, while mostly geared toward residential builders were all helpful and informative.  There were also many product demonstrations and hands on training right on the show floor.  I will be writing more on these subjects in future posts.

The experience of attending such a large show was amazing, educational, and exhausting.  When I came back to work my co-workers asked if I had fun.  Yes, I had fun.  I was in one of the most amazing cities our country has to offer, surrounded by people who have the same passion as I, gaining knowledge in a field I am excited to be in.  With that said it was still work, I spent at least 8 hours a day at the show, walked miles and miles of the show room, spent hours talking with vendors, networked with many people, and tried to retain as much knowledge from the show as possible.  I didn't leave the show with thousands of free-bees, I didn't spend every night out on the strip, and I didn't skip any part of the show I thought would be useful to me.  I was there to learn and that is what I did, and did again the next day, and did again our last day there.  Even with the dedication I put into the show I still wish I would've been able to get more out of it, I feel like there was more there to see, learn, and do.  

One thing I wish I would have done is do more planning before the show, look at the showroom layout, check out the classes in more detail, and set a schedule for myself.  I feel like I spent valuable time looking for classrooms and wandering around aimlessly.  I didn't get a chance to go see the "The New American Home", a 6,700 square foot home with the latest building and finishing technologies on display.  I also didn't attend some of the classes I would've liked to attend.  Mostly because I was just overwhelmed by the shear volume of things to see and do.  

If you ever have a chance to  attend a show such as this prepare ahead of time and stick to your schedule.  I skipped a class on weatherproofing building envelops I wish I would have attended because I was "too into the show".  Stick to your schedule, the show floor and the vendors will be there when your done.  I also wish I would've been a little more "pushy" toward some of the vendors.  If they were with another person I would usually just skip their booth, thinking I would come back.  There is too much going on to rely on that strategy, just ask them for a card or a pamphlet.  Basically don't skip a chance to go to one of these shows, the amount of knowledge you will gain is priceless, just make sure you are well prepared, stick to your plan, and most of all have fun.

Off to Vegas!

Today I am leaving to attend the National Home Builders Show in Las Vegas!  I will be touring a massive show which includes both the NAHB show and the KBIS (Kitchen and Bath) show.  I will also be attending a multitude of classes which should provide some very useful information to post on this site.  I am excited to share with you all the new trends, products, and information relevant to your field.

Understanding Training Courses

I spent most of my life working in various fields of construction, framing, plumbing, roofing, siding, sales, ect.  Then the economy took a tank and I was out of work.  Shortly after I married my wife I found my first maintenance job.  One of the perks of the job was we were already leaving at the community and, once I could get on the on-call schedule, they would cover my rent.

In order to get on the on-call schedule I was told I needed to get what the property called a HVAC certification.  They told me that once I went through the class and took the test I would be ready to repair the split air conditioning systems we had on our property.

Once I started studying for the "HVAC certification" I realized it wasn't going to give me all the information I needed.  This "HVAC certification" was going to get me my EPA 608 certification.  That certification basically makes sure you know how to properly capture and recharge the refrigerant in the system.  It didn't go over any trouble shooting procedures, repair, or detailed operation of an AC system.  Luckily I had taken a HVAC course in college and had already learned most of that information.

In the years since I have heard many maintenance technicians, managers, and regional manager were under the same impression as I was about the EPA 608 certification.  They figure once the course was passed an employee would be prepared  to work on the systems, which is far from the truth.  My college course was a full semester preparing me to work on the systems; no one or two day course is going to properly teach you to repair an AC system.  You will need months of hands on training or a long course in order to properly fix  these systems.

I have heard this about other training courses too.  Most of the time we are under the impression that once we walk out of a certain training course we will be all set; have learned all the knowledge we need.  More often that not that is far from the truth.  Most courses are designed for students who have a certain degree of knowledge coming into the course.  That maybe basic, mid-level, or advanced but the course will not cover all levels of knowledge.

Because of this I have started calling the hosting agency of the training before signing up for the class.  This could be your local apartment association, a supplier, or a governing agency.  I ask them to give me a run down on exactly what the course teaches and if they have an outline of topics to be covered.  If I am still unsure of how much actual, useful knowledge will be passed around I might even ask to talk to the speaker.  I then take that information to the person I would like to see take the class.  I try to get a good feel for how much of the knowledge they understand and if the class is going to be worth them taking.

Training is expensive, most classes costing hundreds of dollars.  Sending a new technician or somebody who is not familiar to an more advanced class can be worthless, they will not understand the material and will be lost through the entire class.  On the other side of the coin, sending an experienced employee to a class which is more basic can be just as worthless.  Please do some digging into the actual content of upcoming courses to be sure the attendee is going to get the most bang for your buck.  If the class doesn't cover something you would like you can ask the hosting agency if they can squeeze in some of that information, or you can look for another class that might fit your needs better.

I love training, I am probably one of the few in the industry that does.  Training courses look great on a resume and can make a job which seems hard pretty simple.  If the training fits your needs it can be invaluable, speeding up work, fixing problems right the first time, making the workplace safer, ect.  However, if the material is too advanced or too basic it can be a big waste of time.  Make sure you do your research into the training and don't go in blind.

Tool Tracking

My dad supervises a maintenance crew in a state prison here in Michigan and a couple years ago I had the chance to tour the prison he works in.  This prison is one of the oldest in the state and, at one time, had the longest cell block in the country. We were allowed to access the whole prison, as it was at the tail end of a remodel job.  We got to see the old movie theater, no longer in operation, the gym, library, med center, ect.  We also learned a little about the history of the prison which was really interesting as it experienced a riot at one time.  I was even able to see some of the catwalks that were set in between two cells where guards were able to escape during the riot.

I also thought it was pretty interesting to see the procedures the maintenance guys have to go through.  The apartment maintenance industry as a whole is pretty laid back.  For example, if one those guys working in the prison misplaces a tool the whole prison can get shut down.  This means nobody, and I mean nobody, is allowed in or out until that tool is found.  When walking through the prison I saw a board like the one pictured above.  At the time there were a few tools missing from the board.  In their spot was a plastic circle about 1" in diameter with a number stamped on it.  Each maintenance man was given a certain number of these chits with an identifying number on it.  In order to check out a tool they had to give the chit, with their number on it, to the employee passing out the tools.  Without a chit, you didn't get a tool.  If your chit was still on the board at the end of the day and you didn't have the tool, there was a problem.

When I went back to work I started thinking about all the times I would spend minutes or, in rare cases, hours looking for a tool.  I knew I wanted to implement a system similar to the prisons but I knew it was going to cost some money.  I needed to build a caged in area in our shop to house the tools and make sure everything had a labeled spot which meant pegboard hardware, hooks, shelving, ect.  I also would need to buy the chits.  In order to justify the cost I decided to keep track of the time lost looking for tools over a couple weeks.  I started to keep a mental calculation of all the time somebody called over the radio, asked me for a tool, or when I was looking for a tool myself.  I couple times a day I would mark this time down in my notebook.  After two weeks I had tracked 5 hours of wasted time!  That's  130 hours of wasted time a year! 

I sat my regional manager and resident manager down and explained to them my idea.  I wanted to build an 8' x 8' room inside our shop.  In the room I wanted to put two shelf benches on each wall with some stacked shelves on one side.  I also knew we needed plenty of peg board.  The best way to organize tools is with a shadowed peg board.  Outline your tools "shadow" with a marker and then paint in the shape.  I designed it all on Google's Sketchup and showed them what the finished product would look like.

 

Google Sketchup Design

 

On the walls where there is just the wire mesh we were able to hang bigger tools like the leaf blower, shovels, and rakes.  We also stored our extension cords and air hoses on hooks over these areas.

 

After seeing how many hours we were wasting looking for tools I got approval to install the tool crib.  The first step was making a procedure that was going to work well in our environment.  I was the supervisor but I knew I wasn't going to be in the shop all the time so I couldn't use the same system that the prisons used, but I figured if I gave the chits to the guys we could use the honor system. 

 

Unfortunately I was unable to finish the project as I moved on to another job before everything was complete.  I did however leave my idea behind for the incoming supervisor and I hear he put it into place.  Someday maybe I'll stop by to see the finished product.

 

I think all properties should come up with some system or another to keep track of their tools.  Buying tools is expensive and the crew needs to know they are going to be held accountable for how they handle company property.  I think that the tool crib idea is overkill for a lot of properties but after you get into a couple hundred units I think it is more than feasible.  The time employees save is almost an added bonus to the amount of money you can save from lost or stolen tools.

 

Hope this gives some of you some good ideas.  What kind of tool tracking procedures do you guys use on your properties?  Post your ideas below!

Snow Removal Season

Well its that time of year, actually its beyond that time of year and we are now in the thick of things up here in Michigan, winter time!  Time to get out your skis, snow boards, fishing shanty's, ect and have some fun right?  Well, if your part of a maintenance team, probably not until you do some shoveling first.

As maintenance technicians it falls on our shoulders to keep those sidewalks and parking lots clear.  Residents, office personal, cleaners, contractors, ect rely on us to make their trek across our property safe.  This could mean coming in as early as 4am!  Think of it as if its a little battle, you against mother nature!

All jokes aside, snow removal is one of the most important jobs we have.  If done right you will get praised by the tenants as they see you out there in the blistering cold clearing off the snow so they can get to work.  If its done wrong it can mean someone getting hurt and a very costly lawsuit against your property. 

Every season I would start out with a little speech to my crew, stressing the importance of keeping sidewalks clear.  Even so, after a week or so of coming in early and going home late things became a little lax, people start getting burned out, and I would have to go over it all again.  There are a few things I found that help keep people out there diligently shoveling away:

1. Work as an organized team.  When I first started doing maintenance I worked at a very large property, over 800 units.  16 miles of sidewalks graced that property and there were usually about 5 of us that would show up every morning to clear away the nights precipitation.  The grounds supervisor was in charge of snow removal and he was good at it.  He would split us all into teams and give us assigned areas, splitting up snow blowers between teams.  He even had assigned routes that the snow blowers would go so the people shoveling could work their way easily around the property.  We could finish the entire property, including shoveling out between cars parked in handicap spots, in a little over 2 hours.

  Once I moved on from that property I became supervisor at another, smaller community.  There were four of us to take care of just over 250 units, about 10 miles of sidewalks.  The fist snow fall was a disaster, nobody had a clue what to do, I had assumed a plan was in place from years before but I was wrong.  We split up into two groups, two with snow blowers and two with shovels.  The snow blowers both went off with no plan in place, the same with the shovels.  It took us a total of 4 hours to finish our sidewalks.  People were backtracking over already clear sidewalks and there were even a couple areas that were missed.  That's when I knew I needed a better organized plan.  I took out a map of the property and drew routes for the snow blowers to go, same with the shovelers.  The next time it took just under 3 hours.  After 3 or 4 snowfalls we had it down to an hour and a half.

2.  Throw out the 2" rule.  I have been to many properties where they have a 2" rule:  We come in to clear sidewalks when we get 2" or more of snow.  So what happens when it doesn't snow but the wind picks up and creates four foot drifts across some of the sidewalks?  How about a warm afternoon followed by a freezing night?  If you set the 2" precedent and then call people in when there hasn't been any snowfall there are going to be some unhappy campers.  If you don't come in to take care of the situations then your liable to have somebody get hurt on your property.  My crew knew I could call at any time to have them come in.  It didn't make them much happier having to come in early or stay late but at least they knew right from the beginning that it could happen.

3. When in doubt salt.  I know there are going to be property managers who do not like this rule.  Salt is expensive and a big part of budgets are based around purchasing a certain amount but salting sidewalks during normal work hours can mean not having a whole crew on overtime shoveling snow and breaking ice.  That, combined with the fact that it could prevent a major lawsuit against the property, always made my decision on whether or not to salt and easy one.  If the weather called for under 1" of snow fall, if there was high winds in the forecast, or if we had a midday heat up we would always salt sidewalks about an hour before we left for the day.  This way the salt would have the chance to work overnight and, many times, saved us from coming in early the next day.

4. Take breaks.  No matter how organized you are or how much salt you put down there are going to be days where you have to shovel throughout the day in order to keep up with the snowfall.  On these days I would always schedule more breaks than normal.  About every 2 hours we would take a break, on really heavy snowfalls that could become every hour if necessary.  Make sure there is a warm spot for the crew to take a break with hot coffee, hot chocolate, ect available.  I would even provide a warm lunch on some of those days.

5. Maintain your equipment.  Different size properties are going to require different equipment.  You may have a front loading tractor, a plow truck, multiple snow blowers, salt spreaders, or just plain shovels.  No matter what your equipment consists of be sure to keep accurate inventory of it and keep it maintained.  Before the season begins be sure to start the mechanical equipment up, look over shovels for wear and tear, be sure your crew has the right gear to stand negative degree temperatures, and above all make sure you don't run low on salt.  Keeping the crew supplied with the proper equipment will make removing the snow a less stressful operation.

6. Don't afraid to ask for help.  After weeks and weeks of heavy snowfall the crew is going to start to get burned out, no matter how hard you try to prevent it.  On these occasions don't be afraid to ask for help, maybe somebody from the office will be willing to pitch in or somebody from another property.  Don't make this standard practice however, the responsibility still rests on you and your crew.

7. Clear those handicap spots.  Clearing away from parking spots can be difficult.  Plow trucks can't get in there, snow blowers might throw debris at the cars, and shoveling packed snow can be arduous work.  Even with all those challenges I made sure we shoveled out handicap parking spaces, even if a car was parked in them.  Handicap spaces, being wider than a normal parking spot, allow for a snow blower to get through in most cases.  The spots should be treated like another sidewalk, salt when you salt, shovel them out whenever you clear sidewalks.  We would clear out regular parking spaces also, if time allowed or if a car was seriously blocked in.

8. Keep residents happy.  Remember, residents usually don't want to be out in the blistering cold any more than you do but they have responsibilities to uphold (work, school, ect).  The rent residents pay covers the clean up of the sidewalks and parking lots and they rightfully expect them clear.  Help them by clearing out unusually large snow piles behind cars, shoveling next to their cars, ect.  They will be ecstatic and it may even be a deciding factor on whether they move out or not.

9. Walk the property before the first snowfall.  Most properties have a company that is contracted out to remove snow.  Be sure to walk the property with them pointing out sidewalks, parking areas, trash bins, ect.  When there is 10" of snow on the ground a sidewalk can be hard to see.  Most companies will stake out a property for free, see if yours offers this service.  I also walked the property with my crew, making sure everybody was on the same page with our plan and making sure I didn't miss anything.  Be sure to point out fire hydrants, gas valves, ect that need to be kept clear in case of emergencies, you can't always rely on your snow removal company to keep these clear, they may have to be shoveled out by hand once in a while.  Also, work with your contractor, let them know if your not happy with the service they are providing.  Most will correct the situation before the next snow fall.

10. Stay Positive.  People feed off each others emotions.  You will get tired, worn out, and generally crabby during the long winter months.  Try to keep those emotions away from the rest of your team.  Stay happy and positive as much as possible.

These ten simple tips will help you bear through the winter, keep your property looking professional and safe, and keep residents happy.  Just remember summer is just around the corner!  If you have any other tips I would love to hear them, just post below!

Furnace Repair

Basic Forced Air Furnace Trouble Shooting Guide for Maintenance Technicians

By Darrin Card

NOTE:  This is a basic guide for informational purposes only.  This guide will not cover all furnace makes and models.  Only trained professionals should work on furnaces, the author of this guide is not liable for any damage or injuries caused by the improper use of this guide.

One of the most frustrating things for a new comer to the maintenance field can be troubleshooting a forced air furnace.  At first glance a furnace can seem daunting and even dangerous, however once you understand the basic operation of a furnace the task of troubleshooting and repairing can be a fairly easy process.

The majority of new furnaces have self-diagnostic tools built into them.  Be sure to read through the manufacturer’s manual as these tools can save a lot of time and money.  However, they might not always tell the whole story, that’s where understanding the inner workings of the furnace can come in handy.

Familiarizing yourself with the nomenclature of parts in a furnace is the first step to understanding the operation of the furnace itself.  Below is a basic guide to the parts to the furnace.  

There is one part that isn’t labeled on the drawing that I would like to point out, as it plays an important role in diagnosing a broken furnace.  Above the gas control valve and below the draft hood there is a small gray box set on the back of the cabinet.  This part is called a limit control.  There are also a few other parts not depicted in the above schematic.  Those are ignition module (a circuit board), a transformer, inducer motor, pressure switch and a run capacitor.  I will provide pictures of these parts below.

Once you understand that a furnace operates in a fairly lineal process the task of diagnosing becomes much easier to understand.  A furnace goes through many different tasks before it will actually supply heat however most tasks won’t begin until a goal has been met.  For example, the furnace won’t start to run until the thermostat calls for heat, the thermostat won’t call for heat unless the temperature in the room dictates it.  That is a lineal process (in reverse).  I have included a diagram below explaining the steps to the process a furnace goes through in order to supply heat.  Once you understand these steps we can expand on them to include multiple options for repair.  The instructions below are based on a common furnace but there may be minor changes in the operation depending on the model of furnace you are working on.  I will expand on these later in the article however reading through the manufacturers literature for your specific model is always recommended.

Furnace Operation

1)      Thermostat will call for heat, meaning it will send a signal to the ignition control module

2)      In order for the thermostat it must get power from a transformer which lowers the voltage from 120V to 24V

3)      The furnace will get the 24v signal from the thermostat and start by kicking on the inducer motor (if present)

4)      The inducer motor starts a draft to expel the gasses from the furnace

5)      A pressure switch will read when the draft reaches the proper cfm

6)      The pressure switch sends a signal to the ignition board which in turn sends a signal to the igniter

7)      The igniter will heat up and send a signal to the gas valve to open (Sometimes through the ignition control module)

8)      Once the gas valve opens the igniter will ignite the gas and the flame should spread through the burner tubes and reach a flame sensor.

9)      The flame sensor will reach the set temperature and send a signal to the fan to start blowing.

10)   The fan will start with help from the capacitor and blow the unconditioned air over the heat exchanger and out the vents.

11)   A limit control will read that the temperature of the air blowing past the heat exchanger is within a set temperature range.  If the temperature is outside of the range it will shut the whole process down, if it is within the range the furnace will operate normally.

12)   Once the set temperature is met the thermostat will cut off the signal to the ignition control module and the furnace will start to shut down.

13)   The gas valve will shut down but the fan will stay running to expel any heat left in the heat exchanger.

Once a basic understanding of the operation of the furnace is achieved we can now concentrate on the diagnostic process involved in the repair of a furnace.   The first step in diagnostics is running the furnace through a cycle.  To do this you must make sure the furnace is reset and the thermostat is turned up so that it will be calling for heat.  Make sure power is off to the furnace by turning off the power switch or the breaker supplying power to the furnace.  Next check the ambient (air) temperature of the room itself; this can be done simply by checking the thermostat however a bad thermostat may give a false reading.  I always carry a small, digital thermostat in my tool bag for use in situations such as this.  I stick the probe of the thermometer in a supply register and wait for an accurate reading.  Then be sure to set the thermostat to a temperature at least 5 degrees above the room temperature.  Most thermostats have a differential of 1-3 degrees, meaning they won’t call for heat unless the temperature is 1-3 degrees below the set temperature and they will run until the room temperature is 1-3 degrees above the set temperature.  The differential can be adjusted on the thermostat however I normally leave them at the factory setting.

Once the temperature is accurately set you can then turn the power back on to the furnace.  Be sure to pay careful attention to the operation of the furnace at this point.  The furnace should start to go through the steps above and, if it is not working correctly will stop at some point within those steps.  Knowing where the furnace is stopping is critical to diagnosis the furnace.

Once the thermostat calls for heat the inducer motor should kick in.  The diagram above doesn’t include an inducer motor as not all furnaces have them, especially older models.  The inducer motor will look like the one pictured below:

 

If the inducer motor doesn’t kick in turn the power off to the furnace and try and spin the blades by hand.  The bearings may have gone out of the motor itself, in which case you need to replace it.  If the blades spin freely you may have a problem with the transformer, thermostat, or ignition control module.  Start with the easiest to access piece, the thermostat.  Check for a 24v supply to the thermostat using a multi-meter to be sure the transformer is in working order.  Change the batteries in the thermostat and then try “jumping” the thermostat itself (bypassing it by directly connecting the power supply and the heat wire.  Do not do this unless properly trained as connecting the wrong wires may cause more damage to the unit).  If the inducer motor is still not running you may have a problem with the ignition control module or the motor itself.

Once the inducer motor is running you will want to listen for a very faint “click sound” coming from the pressure switch.  The pressure switch should be located close to the inducer motor and look something like this:

 

It should have two tubes running to it.  To check if the pressure switch is working shut down the furnace, disconnect one of the tubes and blow into the inlet tube of the pressure switch.  You should hear a clicking sound.  If you don’t hear the clicking sound the diaphragm is more than likely bad and you should replace the switch.

Once the pressure switch detects the inducer motor is working it will send a signal to the ignition control module which in turn sends a signal to the igniter.

There are a few different types of igniters in furnaces: a glow plug style, a spark igniter, and a standing pilot.  Here are pictures of each:

Glow Plug Igniter

Spark Igniter

Standing Pilot

Glow Plug Igniter

The glow plug igniter should turn a bright orange as it heats up.  If it is not heating up shut down the furnace and look at the igniter.  It may have a break in it or the wires may be charred in which case it will need to be replaced.  The gas valve will not open unless it detects the glow plug is heated up to the proper temp in this type of ignition.

Spark Igniter

A spark igniter has two parts to it, the distributer and the spark igniter.  The distributer is the rectangle looking part in the picture.  These can get plugged up and must be cleaned to allow the gas to pass through.  Be careful when disconnecting a spark igniter assembly as there may be an orifice below the distributer.  Once the inducer motor is detected the gas valve will open the pilot supply, allowing a small amount of gas to the ignition assembly itself.  At this point you should see the sparks coming from the spark igniter and the gas catch on fire.  If you are not seeing sparks replace the spark igniter.  Once the gas is ignited the gas valve will fully open.

Standing Pilot

A standing pilot will always have a flame, even when the furnace is not calling for heat.  The flame should be small and blue little or no orange should be detected in the flame.  The thermocouple on the standing pilot assembly sends a signal to the ignition control module if there is a flame present.  If there is not a flame present the gas valve will shut down the supply to the assembly.  Drafts can blow out standing pilots so be sure to try and re-light a pilot light that is out before replacing the thermocouple.  If the pilot lights but goes out quickly the thermocouple is bad and should be replaced.   If the furnace is calling for heat it will open the gas valve to the burners and the standing pilot will ignite that gas.

 

Once the ignition procedure is confirmed the gas valve should open and send gas through the burners.  There are many different styles of burners which all need to be kept clean and free of debris.  I would recommend hiring a professional to clean burners or train staff on how to clean burners before attempting it on your own.  Below is a type of common burner assembly, however burners can vary greatly.

The flame should spread throughout the burners and should be evenly distributed through the assembly.  If you see a larger flame on one side than the other the assembly may need to be cleaned or replaced.

If there is no gas at all you may have a bad gas valve.  Replacement is the only option here.  Be sure to re-seal all joints with Teflon tape or paste properly rated for gas.  

At the far end of the assembly there should be a flame sensor.  This detects the heat from the flame and sends a signal back to the ignition control module and/or gas valve to let it know things are operating normally.  If the flame sensor doesn’t detect heat it will tell the gas valve to shut down.

 

Flame sensors can become dirty over time and, while they can be cleaned, should be replaced if there is a flame present and yet the gas valve shuts down after only a couple seconds of operation.

Once the flame is detected the ignition control module will send a signal to the fan to turn on and start blowing non-conditioned air over the heat exchanger.  The fan needs help from a capacitor to help get it started.  If your fan doesn’t start running the capacitor can be checked (be sure to ground out the capacitor before working with it as it can hold a charge even when power has been disconnected to the furnace).  Capacitors can be tested, however the instructions can be fairly complicated.  This is a link to the Wikipedia page which has detailed instructions on how to test capacitors:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equivalent_series_resistance

Once the fan starts up it will blow hot air through the heat exchanger, into the duct work, and out the heat registers.  If the fan doesn’t start up, or there is not enough flow the heat exchanger can heat up to a dangerous temperature.  To keep this from occurring a limit control is in place.  Limit controls can come in a few different styles however there are two basic types:

Mechanical Limit Control

Snap Disc Limit Control

 

Again, testing either of these is a very descriptive process and should be done by a professional or learned with hands on training.

If you have flame and your fan kicks on but everything shuts down within a couple seconds or up to a couple minutes of starting, without the room reaching the desired temperature, your limit control could be bad or there could be a blockage in the air flow, first check for a blockage of air flow at either the furnace filter or the A-coil.  Filters should be changed at least every 3 months, a dirty filter can block airflow into the heat exchanger.

An A-coil is used in split-style air conditioning systems.  This means there is a condensing unit outside the unit and an air exchanger inside the unit. The A-coil is the air exchanger and the fins can become clogged with dust, pet hair, and other debris.  These must be cleaned in order to facilitate proper air flow through the heat exchanger.  You can check for air flow at the heat registers also, although this can be deceiving unless you carry an air flow meter with you (I don’t).

 If the filter and a-coil are clean and allowing proper air flow the culprit is probably your limit control.   I usually change these out without testing them as they are a fairly cheap, disposable part.

If you fan doesn’t turn over or runs very slow you should check its operation.  Shut down the furnace and spin the blades by hand, if they seem hard to turn or don’t spin freely the bearings are bad and you will need to replace it.  When replacing a fan be sure to clean off the blades, which will be re-used, and the furnace cabinet while you have it out.

At this point there are no more steps for the furnace to go through, it should run normally and finish its cycle once the room reaches the set temperature.  If it is still shutting down early you may have a bad thermostat.  Again, you can jump the thermostat or you can replace it and see if it takes care of the problem.

The hardest thing to diagnose is the ignition control module.  If you look above the ignition control module plays a role in many of the steps.  They are also one of the most expensive parts of the furnace and it takes the most time to replace (although the fan motor is a close second).  This is usually the last part I replace when following the steps above. 

The biggest mistake technicians make when working on a furnace is rushing through the steps and getting frustrated.  If you are having problems with a furnace take a step back, calm down, and run the cycle again.  Be sure to follow each step and pay attention to what the furnace is telling you.  Having the right tool is also a big help, without the proper tools a 5 minute job can easily turn into 20 minutes of frustration.

Below is a list of tools that I find helpful when working on furnaces:

1)      6-1 screwdriver.  One of the most versatile tools be sure to get one which features ¼” and 5/16” nut drivers along with phillip and standard drivers.  Extra features which I have found handy include an LED light on the tip and an insulated handle.

2)      Multi-meter.  Testing parts saves the time and money for both the technician and the property.  Once you know how to properly use a multi-meter you won’t know what you did without it.  A few features I would look for are; a built-in noncontact voltage meter, CAP or uf testing, and a clamp on head (for air conditioning or refrigerators)

3)      Long set of nut drivers.  6” or longer is nice to reach back to the back of the furnaces

4)      Knipex Cobra pliers.  Some of the best pliers I have found, work flawlessly and are not as bulky as other models I have used.

5)      Headlamp or other light source.  Headlamps offer hands free work lighting but I have found a few other light sources which work just fine.

6)      Jumper wires.  I carry and insulated wire, about 8” long with alligator clips on both sides.  This allows me to jump over any troublesome circuit.  Again, please be sure you are trained properly before attempting this.

7)      Pipe wrench.  Although I can normally get by with my Knipex I usually try and carry a small pipe wrench with me for changing out gas valves.

8)      Small Drill/ Driver.  I really like the Rockwell RK2510K2 as it is small and powerful.  Look for something compact with a LED light on it.

9)      Digital Thermometer.

Stress less capital improvements